A Guide to Toulouse: Where to Eat, Sip and Stay
Toulouse doesn't announce itself, it pulls you in.
Our founder Julie came here for the first time in 2018 — down from the Loire Valley for a film festival — and felt something she hadn't quite felt anywhere else in France: at home. People were smiling, saying hello to strangers, petting each other's dogs, and simply enjoying the endless sunshine. Fashion didn't exist, or was far grungier than anything she'd seen. There was a sense of fullness and happiness that kept drawing her back. It's next to the mountains, next to the sea, and filled with people who define la joie de vivre — not as a slogan, but as a genuine way of moving through a day.
It's also where we run some of our favorite French food and language retreats. So we figured it was time to write the guide.
Below is our curated guide to the spots we return to again and again — the places we love and recommend to our guests.
For easy wandering, we’ve gathered everything into a Google Map List of our favorite addresses across the city.
Where to Stay
Hotel SOCLO - Super cute and in the heart of the city. It has a bed and breakfast/independent boutique vibe.
Le Grand Balcon - Right in the center of everything — a beautiful, classic option steps from the action.
Hotel Villa du Taur - Modern and polished, tucked into one of the city’s most charming streets.
La Cour des Consuls - This is a lovely hotel in the old part of the city. Very comfortable rooms and has a great restaurant, in case you plan to stay in at night, but tons of great places to eat in the neighborhood. It's close to the river too, so you can quickly access the view of the historic Pont Neuf of Toulouse, or you can walk across the Garonne River to the Saint Cyprien neighborhood for a coffee or a treat.
Grand Hotel de l'Opera - This hotel is a little more classic in its design, comfortable as well and beautiful inside and out. This hotel sits in the Place Capitole, Toulouse's main square, so it's right in the heart of the city. You'll have plenty of options for restaurants in and around the Square and lots of shopping as well.
Restaurants for a Long Lunch (or a Very Good Dinner)
Restaurant Balthazar - Dinner treat with a rotating menu!
Ma Biche sur Le Toit - Treat yourself to a glass of bubbly with a beautiful view of the city from above! (Top floor of the Galleries Lafayettes).
Midday Midnight - We recommend lunch!
Muséum Musette - Sit on a terrace in the French summer sun?? Right on the Canal?? Oui oui oui!
Bien Élevé - A lively favorite with bold flavors.
L'Atelier du Pêcheur - This is a seafood treasure!
Chez nous les Libanais - Open all day, these guys know how to feed you!
Le P’tit Louis - This is the teeny tiny restaurant of your dreams. Only open for lunch and only for a couple hours, but this little Korean spot is a perfect depiction of the art of simplicity!
The Pyrenean - Oysters and seafood towers never looked so good!
Cécile - Fresh market food??! Bistro table outside the lively Carmes market in Old Town?? Do it!
Les Petits Crus Toulouse - THE place for wine and cheese and cheese and wine and all things yum yum yum.
Les Passionnes - Classic french bistro in a tasteful setting. I recommend lunch!
BARBAQUE Carmes - One of the favourites for lunch, it's tucked in the little Toulousaines side streets. Meat focussed so don't go without meat on the mind, but so so good!
Bistro Le Coq en Pâte - Some of the best vegetable dishes and that wine cave, aaah!
Le Roche - Tasty little traditional french restaurant with fresh ingredients. As always, ask for the wine list!
Les Têtes d'Ail Toulouse - A little more on the "gastro" side but this is a good little restaurant with a super exciting wine list!
Mammouth - Cafe/restaurant that doubles as small vegetable market.
Le Bol Bu - A fun tea salon with personality.
LaBelleBrune - Good coffee in a warm setting.
Le Bateau Lavoir - A cute little lunch spot
Cafés + Brunch Spots
Tinto – Café d'altitude - Bright, welcoming, and always a good idea.
Cacou Café - Great coffee shop that doubles as a vintage boutique.
Baba Canteen - Great little female owned brunch spot!
Hayuco Coffee Boutique - In an old french barber shop , this coffee is exquisite!
Café Triplette - Great terrace seating facing the church of St Sernin. It's good for a spritz or an afternoon coffee.
CERISE Le Café - Some of the best coffee!
Madame Bovary - Cozy tea salon with good cakes.
Wine + Cocktail Bars
Bistrot 12 - The perfect wine list on the perfect terrace.
Tempête Bar Restaurant - Fun cocktails and snacks.
Grave - A favourite for all things wine and vegetables!
Kodomo - Really creative, fabulous cocktail list! Try the omakase cocktail experience! Just tell them what you like, we promise it won't disappoint.
Fat Cat - Classy, romantic cocktail bar.
Bàcaro - A nice little experience over the canal if you fancy a wander and a nip of something unique!
Au Père Louis - Old timey traditional french brasserie.
L*Agence - Speakeasy style tapas and cocktail bar.
Bar Concorde - Beautiful oldschool café/bar for the real French novelty experience! This one is hard to leave out.
Nabuchodonosor - Great little wine bar for a pre-dinner toast!
Le Temps des Vendanges - Our favourite wine shop in Toulouse!
Bakeries + Quick Bites
Péché Mignon - Cute little tasty bakery!
Boulangerie Pâtisserie Cyprien - A fantastic place for a pastry snack!
Le Détaillant - Very tasty and cheap Spanish-style sandwiches. Note: they come as full baguettes so it's good to share!
Pêcheurs de Sable - Beer garden/café with small bites right on the Garonne river. (Note: only outdoor seating).
markets + food stops
Victor Hugo Market - A favourite covered fresh food market. Note: this closes at 1:30pm but if you get there in time, eat upstairs at one of the many affiliated restaurants and sit on the balcony if the weather permits.
Marché Couvert Saint-Cyprien - More covered fresh food market fun!
Marché Couvert des Carmes - Another fun covered fresh food market surrounded by plenty of good shopping!
La Esquina Epicerie Fine Espagnole - Small Spanish grocery and butcher. Get yourself a fresh cut sandwich and sit on the Garonne!
Conserverie la belle-iloise - Cannery for a more eclectic market haul.
shopping + gifts
Sun Bell Store - Classic men’s clothing store with high quality workwear.
Le Repère - Men’s clothing store - chic as heck.
BENSIMON - Designer home goods + clothing.
RETROPOLIS - Small vintage shop with local art.
Kilostock - Fun vintage clothing store.
La parenthèse - Vintage and hand crafted pieces plus some local art for sale.
Papeterie de la Concorde - This is a beautiful little stationary store that takes you back in time. Some great postcards and vintage prints as well as quality old school stationary.
SLOW Concept - Great sustainable, zero waste accessories and gift shop!
Creative Pink | Boutique de créateurs made in Toulouse - Cute little boutique selling local artisan jewels and clothes etc.
MAAAD Sélection d'objets - Incredible little shop of high-quality thrifted finds!
LA MUCCA - Beautiful stationary and handmade crafts.
Marcel Travel Posters - Some very cute travel posters and postcards.
Fifi Jolipois - Custom jewellery boutique if you're feeling creative! Good opportunity for unique gifts.
Le Petit Souk - Gifts for the little ones!
horlogerie Granier - Vintage clocks and watches. This place is fun to look around and the owner is always very welcoming!
Bonsaï magasin - Peaceful little Bonsai garden tucked away in a little courtyard in quintessentially French fashion. It's a cute, free little pitstop for your strolls!
Aesop - Definitely a "treat yourself" but why not! It's like shopping at the Spa. Dreamy!
bookstors + records
Gibert Toulouse - Big collection of famous French graphic novels! Happy booking!
The Bookshop - English bookstore.
LIBRAIRIE LE PAPIVORE - Specialty of collectable french comic books.
Paul Émile Vinyls - Favourite record store.
parks + landmarks
Les Abattoirs - Historic slaughterhouse turned modern art museum. Pretty grounds and fun to walk around.
Basilique Saint-Sernin - Beautiful church square with Bocce ball court and cafés.
Basilique Notre-Dame de la Daurade
Pont Neuf - Beautiful bridge over Garonne River in the city center. Also where you'll cross to get to our dinner reservation!
Place St Georges - Nice square with plenty of cafes and a morning market.
Rue Saint-Rome - A nice street to start your shopping/walking tour.
neighborhoods we love
As for your time after the retreat, some of my favorite neighborhoods in Toulouse are the Carmes neighborhood, (calmer during the evening, beautiful, close to the river and there's a great covered market!) and the area around the Square Charles de Gaulle, (very near to Capitole with lots of shopping).
Come See for Yourself
Toulouse is one of our favorite retreat destinations — and honestly, once you've been, you'll understand why it's hard to leave.
Our retreats are based an hour outside of the city at Château de Labusquière — a 13th-century castle in the village of Montadet, thoughtfully renovated, with 15 rooms and hilltop views of the French countryside that make you forget what you were supposed to be doing. There's a swimming pool, a bocci terrain with a view, and paths through the park and forest that want you to get a little lost. It's not a hotel. It's a place that feels, from the moment you arrive, like it's been waiting for you.
